I can just imagine the heat from the flames I’d get on the forums if I said this, but this is something I just can’t hold back any longer after reading so many threads on the Ultimate Attenuator. I’ve spent a lot of time studying how different attenuators work, and I’ve come to the conclusion that despite its popularity, this is not an attenuator that I’d even consider getting, even if it’s at a reasonable price – which it isn’t. I have a lot of different reasons for not liking this attenuator, but the biggest issue to me is the fact that with the UA, the amp is no longer reacting with the speaker and vice-versa. The UA has a cheap, solid-state amplifier built into its circuitry to re-amplify the amp’s signal after it has passed through the 32 ohm fixed resistor. At that point, the speaker is interacting with the solid-state amp. How that can pass for transparency is beyond me.
Then there’s the fixed resistor. Don’t even think about running a 2 or 4 ohm output into that attenuator. You’re risking serious damage to your amp if you do that. The impedance mismatch there is so high, it has the potential to fry your power tubes or worse. As an add-on, you can get the 16/32 ohm switch, or get one of Ted Webber’s impedance matchers. But then you’ve already spent $750 – that’s just nuts!
I use the Dr. Z Airbrake which uses a rheostat type of resistor to provide variable attenuation. People have complained that at high attenuation levels it sucks tone. It does indeed, but for normal usage, just above loud conversation volume, it is very transparent, and I would daresay that it’s much more transparent than the UA because the amp and speaker are still reacting to each other as there is no “middle-man” solid-state re-amplifier.
I’m probably going to piss people off with this little rant, but so be it. I freely admit that I’m no electronics expert, but I do have the intelligence to understand a thing or two about amps, and a re-amplified attenuated signal – at least to me – isn’t going to be transparent.
There are a couple promising methods to attenuate volume that make all resistance methods inferior (at the expense of higher costs). One of them is London Power Scaling by Kevin O’Connor http://www.londonpower.com/, which reduces the voltage in the power supply to attenuate volume without being hard on the power tubes. This power scaling can be found on amps such as the Fargen Mini Plex MkII http://www.fargenamps.com/ampminiplex.html and the Suhr Badger 18 http://www.suhrguitars.com/badger.aspx. Check out the Fargen Mini Plex audio and video clips about halfway down the page. Awesome! The newest and most expensive method is FluxTone Speakers http://fluxtone-speakers.com/. I first heard of them in an article by Premier Guitar, and it seems their method of controlling volume by varying the electromagnetic flux through the speaker while allowing the entire guitar signal to pass through really works! Now if only I could come up with $850 to test it out for myself…
Three of the links in my first reply have somehow incorporated the closing parenthesis into the URL address, so just remove them and the links should work.
Yikes! $815! Looks like they’re using that old field coil method from way back when. That stuff really works. Very nice. But man! That’s a HUGE price to pay, and will only work with one speaker at a time. I suppose in a studio, that’s just fine. The advantage of an attenuator is that attenuation is on the total output, not just a single speaker.
I believe the challenge most attenuator manufacturers face is impedance matching through the range of attenuation. Since many use a single fixed resistor, there’s only so far they can go.
Just my 2 cents here, but i’ve used the Ultimate Attenuator for about a year and it crushes the Hotplate and Power Brake for sound quality. I’ve had no problems at all in use and it’s fantastic for small club gigs. I use it with a JCM 800 2204, 2203x reissue, 2205 dual channel reverb, and a 1987x reissue. All the amps work exceptionally well with it.
When playing this at really low volumes (bedroom levels), i do turn the treble and presence up a bit. At higher gig volumes i roll it back a bit as the perception of the high end becomes louder at louder volumes.
Either way, the sound does not sound veiled. It isn’t identical to using it without the UA, but it does not add anything that clouds the sound. The amps sound so good with the masters (or not with the amp that doesn’t have a master), you can’t believe it, if you haven’t turned your volume all the way up. It is a wonderful investment, and if you shop around (i bought mine from Mark’s music in NH), you can get a loaded model significantly cheaper than ordering direct.
kristian,
Thanks for sharing your insights! The two I tested really colored my tone, and not in a good way. But I’ve since come to understand that the UA sounds different with different amps. Glad to hear you’re having success with it!
GoofyDawg
I have a Komet Concorde Amp which is absolutely amazing and currently have a UA which is temporary only until I can get something better (Phanotom or Aracom). For those of you familiar with the Komet, there is “Fast Mode” which just wails with great touch sensititvity and “Gradual Mode” which is a bit smoother, less gain but such dynamics, wow! I found myself playing live more in Gradual Mode simply due to the fact that I felt in Fast Mode the UA was completely wrecking the tone. It almost felt like I was playing through a compressor that was flattening out the tone. The responsivness was just not there. There was slightly more clarity while playing in gradual mode but that suffered too. As I said, this is temporary. The UA is a goner hopefully soon.
I’ve played the UA (owned one for a couple months), Aracom & Faustine Phantom.
No contest. The impedance mismatch of the UA and the re-amped tone were a deal-killer. Tone was not bad but not at all transparent. Impedance mismatch a serious concern IMO unless all you have are 16 ohm amps/speakers, in which case a 2:1 ratio may save you, but on an 8, 4, or 2 ohm setup a UA will be a killer over time IMO.
The Faustine is the cream of the crop IMO/IME & worth the heavy price for the quality, tone, & utility.
The Aracom also sounds very good & has the benefit of separately switchable input & output impedance. But it’s a big box to haul around and figure out where to put, etc.
The Phantom & Aracom are worlds above the rest. The UA is one of the also-rans.
Absolutely. But I’m not sure if I’d ever pay $949 for the Phantom. $749 was a consideration, but this new price – I don’t see the justification.
if you do studio work or have a studio, or it replaces an OD pedal or 3 the cost, while very high, is not out of line with the quality …
“value” v. “cost” … it’s certainly not for everyone.
Here’s my 2 cents. I’ve been playing concerts and clubs for almost 40 years. I play blues, swing, boogie and blues/rock. I have owned and used the Ultimate attenuator regularly at rehearsals and club dates for the past 3 years. With it, I can play any venue with my Fender 57 Twin Reissue cranked to it’s sweet spot (8 or 9 on the amp volume knob). The 57 Twin expects 4 ohms from the speakers, but absolutely no problems at all with the Ultimate. My well-repected amp tech in Atlanta, after looking the ultimate over and taking some measurements, says: ‘Just play it man’. My power tubes have been lasting a year or more. After that I change them, not because they have gone bad, but just for reliability insurance. The tone is the same as it is when not using the Ultimate at all (admittedly I don’t do “bedroom” levels”, but I play some smaller clubs where my amp on 8 would be WAY too loud). I DID NOT like the tone with a Hot Plate. I get consistent compliments on my tone. I plug my old strat or old Les Paul straight into the amp, and let it rip. Before getting the Ultimate, I bought a couple of boutique drive pedals, looking for that natural tube overdrive and touch-sensitivity at a lower volume. Those pedals have been in the closet for the past 3 years. I suppose it is possible that playing through the Ultimate could be putting strain on my amp. But I truthfully tell you – three years of daily playing through it and NO problems. I am totally satisfied with this unit.
That’s great to hear a contrasting view. Thanks!
It all began at the end of 2010. I’ve decided to buy me the most talked about attenuator in the market.
Unfortunately, no one worn me of what is about to happen.
After searching all over the net, I’ve decided to buy the Ultimate Attenuator. I’ve decided to invest a lot, as you all know this is the most expensive one out there.
So I’ve contacted Mark, who is the owner of this brand. Of course he was very polite and answered within a day or two to every mail I wrote him.
After few question I had that Mark had answered, I’ve made the order. Transferred him the money and so the waiting begins.
The package arrived after about 17 days, and when picking it up, the package looked really small.
I’ve arrived home from the P.O and opened the package, which was POORLY packed, and this is an understatement.
Unfortunately, I’ve discovered that the front volume knob is broken and so is the front panel, the entire metal cover is dent and smashed (I guess this is what happens when you don’t pack it as needed).
When connecting the attenuator to the amp and speaker, of course it even didn’t turn on.
I immediately contacted Mark notifying him about this issue.
He told me “I got your phone message and emails. I am sorry about the problem. I wish we could package better but it’s all we can fit in that box. If we used a different box, shipping would cost twice as much so we know that occasionally there may be shipping damage. So far, this is the worst.” – So this is how they work, they ship with as less packing as possible hopping for the best. He also said that he will replace all broken parts, and he will send them right away.
Meanwhile I went to technician who fixed the problem of the attenuator that didn’t turn on. It was due to the massive impact it had suffered. But the crackling noise that came from the knobs, I guess I just had to learn to live with it as is.
After about two month of almost begging Mark for answers and refund for the electrician fixing the problem, I just gave up, and then the replacement parts had arrived (24 Mar).
Thought this would be the end of this story, but again I was mistaken. Got the knob and the metal case housing for the attenuator, but NO front panel (reminder – it was completely broken).
Again, the emails between me and Mark had started again, when I was the one “Begging” him to send me the panel and him not responding.
After month of begging, the panel had finally arrived (27 May), and guess what. You were right; it was poorly packed again and came totally in pieces. I guess his mailing system has not changed.
Since then, I’ve been writing Mark on a monthly basis begging him to send me what I only think is rightfully should be sent. Once every two or three month he respond with excuses like “I’m back ordered on those parts. I’ll take one off of an existing UA” or “Sorry. Please resend address and I will pack and ship.”
I’ve just had it with this behavior!!! This is not the first time I buy things On-line, but it is defiantly the first time I encounter this poor and unfair behavior from someone I had paid him so much money.
I just had to share this story with you all, beware of such on-line sellers!!! I guess I’ve learned my lesson here. I will NEVER do business with him again and hope you as well!
Regards,
Boidek.